New beginnings, vintage lounge
Cypher wines have been a favourite of mine ever since I first tasted them in 2013. The unconventional labels and consistently good wine really helped the brand stand out. Who wouldn’t want to try a wine called “Anarchy” or “Slayer”?
The brand was started by Christian Tietje (a.k.a. ZinBitch) and Susan Mahler (a.k.a. Sam – ZinPunk) around 12 years ago. Now, the pair has set up separate operations. Christian has a tasting room in Tin City, on the outskirts of Paso Robles for his “Anarchy Wine Co” wines, while Sam has just opened a new Cypher tasting room next to the train station in downtown Paso, in what used to be the original railway station building.
The new Cypher tasting room has been very tastefully decorated by Sam, who clearly has an eye for such things. There’s a welcoming 1920’s feel to the place, with cosy vintage furnishings. This is somewhere to buy a glass of wine and relax with friends.
The wines
The tasting list when Jamie and I visited consisted of 5 wines, mostly showcasing Rhone varietals. We found Mark, who poured for us, to be passionate and knowledgeable about the wine. The wine itself was consistent in its quality, with a theme of pronounced aromatics and rich mouthfeel. Jamie and I were lucky to try some off-list wines, in addition to the official lineup.
The highlights for me were as follows:
Willow Creek Grenache 2013 – Even, medium ruby colour. Earthy, meaty nose, with ripe red fruits. Medium-bodied, with lasting soft tannin, medium+ acidity. Long finish with hints of chocolate on the tail end. Retail price $55
Willow Creek Mourvedre 2014 – Medium-deep ruby-purple. Medium intense aroma, a little floral up front with woodsmoke, ripe blackberry, dark chocolate, coffee, and cinnamon spice. Dry and balanced on the palate, with medium acidity and medium, fine-grained tannin. Rich, long finish. Retail Price $55
Phoenix Syrah 2013 – Deep, rich ruby purple. Intense smoky, meaty nose. Soft, ripe dark blackberry fruit, spicy vanilla, cherry, pepper. Rich but refined on the palate. Fine tannin, medium acidity. Smooth, long finish with fruit and smoke. Retail price $40
TNT 2014 – A blend of Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petite Verdot. Medium+ garnet with a little purple. Intense, savoury nose. Woodsmoke and spice up front, opening up to reveal dark fruits, caramel, and coffee. Full-bodied and dry. Medium+ tannin is balanced with mouth-watering acidity and ripe fruit. Long, rich finish. Retail price $55
Eclectic 2014 – Touriga Nacional, Tinto Cao, Souzao, Cabernet Sauvignon, Teroldego, Tinta Roriz… Quite a blend! Rich, deep ruby colour. Intense aromas of ripe cherry, black tea, anise and spice. Complex and interesting. Full-bodied, dry and rich. Medium, lasting tannin. Lasting, complex finish with plum, black cherry, cranberry. A touch of graphite on the tail end. Retail price $50
Conclusion
I like this place and really like the wines. If I had to choose just one favourite from the ones we tasted, it’d probably be the Eclectic. Unconventional, complex and interesting, this wine is a great example of what’s possible in such a diverse wine region. I dare say it would age very well, but it’s really delicious right now. It’s still early days for the new tasting room, so please do them (and me) a favour and get this review out there. Share on Facebook, Twitter etc, and most importantly, try the wine. The new location is easily accessible, so drop in and say hi from me.
If you’d like to learn more about how I got into wine, click here.
For more wine reviews, take a look at my main blog page, here.
Darren.